Comments (4)
Original comment by Barbara Weberkind (Bitbucket: curious_one, GitHub: Unknown):
Fold placement (width is centered equally around stitch line or else folded toward either side) etc... while of course, this is part of the sewing techniques, I'd put it into the pattern, because it is instructive and important for the future drape of the garment. Commercial patterns I know indicate pleats by using two short lines across the pattern piece edge that gets pleated, where the two lines are meant to meet in the finished garment, and an arrow indicates which line should be folded over to meet the other, or more exactly, to where each of the lines should be folded. That then defines the direction of the pleat. It does not define whether the width should lie inside or outside, that's usually described in the text, or would need a special kind of symbol.
Correct me if your understanding is different, but mine is like this: A 'tuck' would be an embellishment technique a little pleat that is sewn along. Common in shirts of blouses next to the front opening. Not to worry about words and definitions, I just want to point out that there are very many different things that could be considered 'tucks' and that the tool then would have to cover.
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Original comment by Susan Spencer (Bitbucket: suzynumena, GitHub: Unknown):
Tucks = Pleats
But people generally use the word they like
Tucks usually imply small width and long length, like on a tucked tuxedo
shirt
Pleats usually imply wide width and short length with an open end, like on
a pleated skirt or pleated grosgrain ribbon.
Tucks and Pleats are created with a formula which uses width and
distribution across the distance between a begin and end point. They are
usually identical and parallel, even if the tuck or pleat inserts at an
angle.
Most garment tucks and pleats are 90 degrees to their seam line, but they
can be at any angle.
Beyond this, the different kinds of pleats and tucks are determined at the
sewing and ironing stage.
Fold placement (width is centered equally around stitch line or else folded
toward either side), fold visibility (width is inside or outside the
garment), and sewing techniques (cartridge pleats especially as these are
usually hand sewn) determine the type.
Gathers are extra width between a begin and end point. There is no length
or angle and no additional structure or sewing options. They use a
different calculation and sewing treatment from tucks and pleats. The
insertion of extra width is based on rotation around a center point using
the slash-and-spread method instead of the parallel method used by
tucks/pleats. Gathers will be a different tool.
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Original comment by Susan Spencer (Bitbucket: suzynumena, GitHub: Unknown):
Hey Barbara we have a critical ASAP need for the slash and spread tool.
What do you think about it?
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Original comment by Barbara Weberkind (Bitbucket: curious_one, GitHub: Unknown):
Please explain... tucks? Is this pleats? There are so many different ways of dealing with fullness, not just pleats. And there are diffferent kinds of pleats, like cartridge pleats, knife pleats, etc... I think you even need a 'gather' tool which draws a wavy line, user can specify the final length the width should be gathered to. Could these all be options of the tool?
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