cm3588-nas-case's Introduction

CM3588 NAS Case

3D Printable Case for the CM3588 NAS board.
Minimal Assembly required.
Variants for Installations with fans are included.

NOTE:

I do not have the NAS Board on Hand. If you decide to print the Case, please leave me some feedback to further improve the Case.

The Case is available for download.

Required Components

4 M2 Threaded inserts
4 M2 Flat-Head Screws

Any Flat-Head screw is ok. Contersunk screws will damage the PCB, so avoid using these.
The screw length must be smaller than 10mm.

Assembly

You need the three Parts of the Case and 5 buttons printed.
Begin by inserting the Threaded inserts in the 4 Standoff holes in the Main Body.
Place the 5 buttons inside the holes.
Insert the CM3588 Board into the Case. Keep it level when inserting. It should go in freely until it hits the standoffs.
Secure the PCB with the 4 Screws.
Attach the two Panels. The Panels are only using a friction fit currently. This might me improved in later revisions.
The NAS is ready to power up.

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cm3588-nas-case's Issues

STL files and instructions dont seem to match

I am looking for a case for the CM3588 and came across this design. I like the overall design and assembly options. Reading the instructions the MainBody.stl is missing some holes for buttons and heat inserts. Or am I missing something. Thanks.

Some adjustments

Hi there! First of all, thank you so much, the case is amazing :-) A friend of mine printed it for me with the following settings:

Printer: Anycubic Vyper
Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 5.2.2
Filament: Eryone White PLA 1,75 +- 0.03

0.16mm, 10% Infill, 200°C, 60.0mm/s

I've attached some pictures of how the board fits and firmly sits in the case. The screw-holes are somewhat misaligned, but I didn't even need the screws at all.

The slot for the sd card was a little too narrow so I had to sand it down a bit to get proper access to it. Otherwise all the I/O seems to be accessible to me.

An issue I had: The buttons don't work at all, they are a lot deeper than you'd think so they need to be at least 2mm longer to be able to use.

A feature idea: The heatsink has mounting holes for what I believe to be a 40mm fan, you could add an appropriate hole above this area to the lid, so that a fan could suck air from the lid and blow it out the side holes. I tried running the board cooled passively, but my SSDs got over 60 degree when utilized and had an idle temp of around 45-50°, that's not something to run 24/7 I feel like, so a fan hole would definitely add some more options.
Depending on the type of cable used, the case might benefit from slightly larger slots for the USB and HDMI connectors. Although sanding them down works too.