I tried to print the release version of the SB front but kept getting the artifacts shown in the picture beneath. This is the result of the walls being too thin to fit more than 1 perimeter and the gap fill showing through.

The issue is cause by this little edge which has in my eyes no reason to be here.

Deleting the facet make the whole wall a bit thicker and results in a far better quality.

Page 42 of the stealthburner manual says to use M3x8 bolts. a) the holes are not big enough and b) they do not fit a dragon high flow hotend. Also, the dragon high flow hotend needs to have the top piece removed which is not mentioned in the manual at an earlier point in the manual.

For me, I heat setted M3x8 bolts and THEN discovered that the hotend didn't take the bolts and completely damaged the parts trying to heat remove them. Now I've had to resource the parts and I've learned the hard way that M2.5x8 is ACTUALLY required.

Please can you address this in the manual.

On p. 29 of the manual a M3 washer is required, while present in the sourcing guide, this is missing from the BOM.

the dragonfly BMS 7fin file stealthburner_printhead_phaetus_bms7_front.stl has P-BMS6 imprinted on the toolhead STL pretty sure that should be P-BMS7 to avoid confusion.

Does this warrant a pull request?

Page 31 of the assembly manual reference cable bridge. Tripped me up. If it's just me, close this issue. But if we think other people might stumble on this it's a simple fix, which is the real focus of this issue.

For the Switchwire X Carriage, there are 2 belt clips that were in the beta which are missing from the released version.

On Page 23 of the voron stealthburner manual

We see:

DON’T OVERTIGHTEN
Tighten until the plastic bends and cracks.
Back up 2 turns, discard parts, reprint and try
again.

This language seems confusing to me.
1.) it tells me to not over tighten. ok. got it!
2.) it then tells me to tighten until I bend and then crack the plastic. (what? this sounds bad)
3.) then it tells me to back up 2 turns (turn the screws in reverse by... how much? 2x 360deg rotations?)
4.) and to then reprint and do this again. (was I supposed to remember the position of the screw for next time?)

it sounds like i need sacrificial parts, and that cracking my parts is part of calibrating the screw tightness or something.

If I had to rewrite this, I would say instead:

DON’T OVERTIGHTEN
If you bend or crack the plastic, discard parts, reprint and try again.

Which is much more clear.

Or, in the scenario of calibrating your tightness using sacrificial parts, I'd say something more like this:

DON’T OVERTIGHTEN
Have 2 sets of parts ready, one is sacrificial:
Tighten until the plastic bends and cracks.
Back up 2 turns (360deg each turn), note the screw depth, discard parts, 
reprint and screw to the previously found depth.

As it is now, I can't tell what is being asked. But I'd default to not cracking my parts if possible. :-)

Discord user: Hagbard#7867 discovered an issue with the rapido_rear_cw1 and rapido_rear_cw2 mounting to Tap. The hotend couldn't sit flush due to the BHCS on TAP, see Link 1. Hagbard moded the rear mounts and pinned it in Voron_Tap, see Link 2.

Link 1: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1041007230239125574/1047294839181557800/unknown.png
Link 2: https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1041007230239125574/1047298344680165466

Assembly manual page 42 says "M3 MOUTING BOLTS?"

Should be MOUNTING perhaps.

V6 CAD files with STL CW2 do not conform to the problem

Hey all,

My issue is I am unable to get rid off underextrusion. I calibrated Extruder rotation distance, then I calibrated flow rate and lastly pressure advance. No matter what I do every print is underextruded, some more some less...

Finally I changed guilder parts by 1 mm to make extruder gears closer and no underextrusion issues.

The bom says 2 are needed but the manual says 3 are needed.

1 for the filament tensioner max travel screw
2 for the part cooling fan

The mounting bolts for the ADXL are named as M3x16_SHCS_1 in Stealthburner_Assembly.stp, but when measured they are actually 12mm long. Checking irl, 12mm is indeed the appropriate length. The bolt length is never stated in the manual.

The repo is missing the klipper_macros folder from the beta, which has the config you'd need for the LEDs.

Pages 70-71 still reference afterbuner in the manual

[delayed_gcode sb_leds]
## STATUS_READY
initial_duration: 1
gcode:
    _set_sb_leds_by_name leds="logo" color="standby" transmit=0
    _set_sb_leds_by_name leds="nozzle" color="standby" transmit=1

Not sure if you would want to implement this in this way but some kind of section like this should be added at least in a commented out manner.

The M3x40 screw used to connect the 2 halves of the x-carriage should actually be an M3x30, M3x40 would stick out the other side:

The CAD also has this screw mis-labelled as M3x40 but it is in fact 30mm long.

Hi,

I followed the manual, everything looks good except for one step for the tool catridge (page 41).
The manual tells to use M3x12 bolts but they won't fit.
It should be M3x14 (tried that, it works) or M3x16 (didn't try that but it should work, based on CAD).

Thanks for the hard work !

On page 55 of the documentation there is a mention of a cutting jig for the 5015 fan.

I am unable to find it in the STLs folder. I can't find it either in the BETA repository.

Hello I would like to edit the for the SB because this no longer fits due to the heat sink of SB2040 where can I get the file

I just realized that the "[a]_stealthburner_main_body" of stealthburner is printed in accent color according to the naming schema, this makes the printed Stealthburner looks primarily in "accent" color (especially from the front view) - that make this naming bit confusing.

Manuals says M3x30, i had to use M3x40. CAD also measures 40mm.

Geometry of guidler is different in STL file than in STP file. See photos below.

The heatset insert hole misalignment, picture include: Phaetus 7 fin in the left and 6 fin in the right.

On my Switchwire I had to replace my Afterburner and have a Stealthburner almost ready except for the Front.
I connected the LDO NEMA 14 to the Extruder but get no move on the inserted Filament. What coud it be?

Too long a screw specified in manual.
Needs to be a M3x20 to attach the stealthburner upper screws, not M3x25

Looks like a typo in red - "mouting" -> "mounting"

x_frame_V2TR_2xMGN9 carriage does not have the same wider pass thru hole which x_frame_V2TR_MGN12 has and thus makes it incompatible with the Panasonic GX-H15A which is referenced on the BOM and the CAD file... as the hole pattern is just that tiny bit narrower...

Also a probe bracket does not exist for the Panasonic GX-H15A probe neither...

I had fixed the issue locally myself, but I thought this should be addressed upstream... thanks for all the hard work

Ever since the Beta release of the SB / CW2 Combo I was having an issue that would creep in as time would pass, sometimes after weeks, sometimes during the first few prints where prints would fail because of the already high friction in my ERCF equipped System ( 1.5m Bowden Length ) causing the Filament getting stripped - With the general increase in room temperature during the summer this issue seems to have skyrocketed pretty much breaking the final straw in getting nice or even just finished prints at all.

Most of the time I could fix this by reprinting the Guidler, Latch, and Shuttle parts hinting at the issue being somewhere in that region.

• With the release of the SB / CW2 CAD Solids I found confirmation that the Active Drive Gear was situated in the shadow of the Filament Path - The Passive Guidler Gear would thus constantly push the Filament into the side of the Filament Path of that of the Active Drive Gear introducing unnecessary ( and in my case additional ) friction.
  Shifting all of the Geometry surrounding the Active Drive Gear 0.3mm ( like those of the Bearing Pockets ) towards the Guilder is sufficient enough to fix that - The Filament will no longer be pressed against the Sides of the Filament Path.

• Another MOD I had to perform was fattening up the Guidler and Latch Parts as I'm suspecting one or the other to suffer from creep under the constant load while working under hightened temperatures:
  
  Fattening up the Guidler and Lever reduces the range of motion of the latter but won't actually impact the release of the Shuttle - The changes are also barely noticeable from an aesthetiv viewpoint but using these mods appears to have remedied most of the issues I've been dealing with over the last few days.

• Of note is also that performing an Interference Check between the StealthBurner_Body and a Toolhead will show a conflict on either side of the now Angled Areas that prevent the Partcooling Air from Escaping via the gap before it makes it from the Fan to the Toolhead.

SW X Carriage CW2 - 2 of the M3X40 bolts and their corresponding nuts are not centered in their hole.

Thanks!

Quick skim, not seeing BOM in SB repo or as tab in Sourcing Guide

Hello
I've been testing stealthburner with a V6 mostly printing PLA. Already tweaked temperature, retraction, retraction speed, etc and still having problems with stringing.
It seems that air flow not going directly to the nozzle point direction.
Anyone with similar problems or am i missing something?

Cheers and keep up the good work

I need E3D-V6 air duct model CAD file, thank you!

STLs/X_Carriage/x_frame_V2TR_MGN12_left.stl

the passage for a screw is missing here it also affects the other side

As of 5a2a1fd, there seem to have been minor modifications to the CW2 latch (relative to RC1) that are not mentioned in the logs and not reflected in STL changes. I didn't check other elements, just happened to be looking at the latch.

Is there a system in place to collect this information, or does someone have to manually go through and manually diff the whole design at the next release?

https://vorondesign.com/voron_stealthburner tells me I need 2 M3x6 FHCS screws for the stealburner.

But I count 3 at the manual:

• 1 x page20
• 2 x page56

• The Sourcing Guide has a lot of empty cells, will it be updated at some point?
• In the The Sourcing Guide the Complete BMG Extruder Clone link is dead at aliexpress (other link works)
  • AliExpress returning 404: Sorry, the page you requested can not be found:(
  • here is a link for a genuine BMG set at filastruder
• The Sourcing Guide's “ADXL Optional” is not listed on the BOM (should it be?)
• I assume “ADXL Optional” is the ADXL 345 from google searches on it... something like this?
  • https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-ADXL345-Triple-Axis-Accelerometer-ADA1231/dp/B01BT4N9BC
  • or this (~6x cheaper)? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803808631787.html
  • many ADXL boards seem to have different form factors slightly... how to choose, or identify what’s compatible?
• The Sourcing Guide's Neopixel was missing links for sourcing, here's some I found:
  • https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804089586600.html
  • https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256804145533673.html
  • hahah rainbow barf neopixels: https://kb-3d.com/store/printer-specific-harnesses/566-6854-rainbow-barf-led-toolhead-harness-for-stealth-burner-1653783045189.html#/279-connectortype-molex_microfit_30
• BOM/Sourcing: Hotends you recommend for the proper stealthburner experience would be nice to see listed.
  • Is there a place where their merits and detriments are compared/discussed in a doc in re: to stealthburner? The Stealthburner/Printheads/README.md only has notes, but no guide to selecting them…
    • Might be nice to link to this hotend decision guide, should you create it, from the BOM/Sourcing Guide to help people make their decisions...
• No inductive probe listed in BOM or Sourcing Guide, but is listed in the manual. "Omron TLQ5MC", etc...
  • TLQ5MC https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804098418377.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef18023FAhDI&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
• In the BOM and also in the Sourcing Guide: What is the "6x3mm Magnet" for? searching the Manual for the word "Magnet", as well as scrolling and looking at pictures, I dont see any mention or depiction of a magnet.
  • If this is the Hall Effect sensor (such as Omron TLQ5MC) depicted in the manual, then 6x3mm Magnet is sort of.... uh..... misleading. HA!
• The Amazon "Initec" Heatset inserts recommended by the Stealthburner Sourcing Guide, are the WRONG SIZE.
  • measuring with calipers, I get: M3 L3.8 D5.5 (that's wrong! we want M3x5x4)
  • The Stealthburner Manual on "HeatSet Inserts" pg 11 links to The Voron sourcing guide which lists M3 Brass Heatset Inserts - Short M3x5x4, And gives the following links for M3xD5xL4:
    • Aliexpress
    • Aliexpress
    • We should be consistent across the sourcing guide, and recommend the same inserts everywhere.
      • Stealthburner recommends Amazon Initeq (wrong size), while the general sourcing guide recommends aliexpress.

Hope this helps RC1 get to Release :) And I hope appropriate as a github issue :)

I think the orientation of the [a]_Belt_Clamp_SW_x2.STL is wrong and should be rotated the same as the [a]_xz_belt_clip_x2.stl in the Switchwire-github.

Default X_Carriage from Voron2.4/Trident have place for hall effect endstop, is it possible to add it to Stealthburner X_Carriage ?

In the Stealthburner assembly manual there is no mention of using threadlocker to secure the M3x6 FHCS used for anti squish thingymajig. Multiple people have reported that screw coming loose over time, including myself. Using threadlocker on this screw should prevent the bolt from coming loose.

I suggest to add a note to use threadlocker when installing this screw. It can be done on page 20 and/or 27 of the assembly manual.

In the CAD, the two screws attaching the ADXL345 mount to the toolhead body are labelled as M3x16, but are in fact M3x12.

The manual doesn't mention the two screws, but it might give issues with a BOM when it's based on the CAD screws

Hey,

I am currently building a Stealthburner and it seems to me like two Holes for Threaded Inserts int he CW2-Motorplate need to be "Reversed".

As they are, the Inserts are on the same Side as the Screw resulting in the Insert beeing easily pulled out when to much force is applied. To me, someone not proficient in Product Design, this seems odd, as the Holes could be easily Reversed so that the Insert is on the Opposite Side as the Screw and thus needs to be pulled through the whole Part to be pulled out.

I have made some Screenshots of the Current Version and the Overhauled Version which I frankensteined together.

Primarily I'm just curious as to why the Holes are Oriented that way.

Kind Regards

Pedda

There are a few inconsistencies with the STEP files compared to some of the well established files like the 2.4

• SW X Carriage CW2 - There are no part names here just body 1, 2, 3 etc.
• CW2 - Not colored

As a suggestion, why not have them all in a single file like afterburner is setup. It makes seeing the fitment of the three parts easier.

Thank you for your tireless work on this!!

STL part [a]_latch_shuttle.stl on page 15 is not marked as an accent part.

There appears to be a rogue triangle in the cooling duct of the revo mount, it's causing extrusions in mid-air when trying to slice/print

I've been noticing a lot of people asking questions on Discord what the _SW means in the file names. For example STLs/Clockwork2/chain_anchor_2hole_SW.stl

Can we either change the suffix to _Switchwire and/or add that suffix to the Readme.md in the STLs/ folder for Filename Nomenclature?

I have looked through the Phaetus BMS files, and when i open the front part stl file for bms 7 it is the BMS6 inscription on it.

and there is no visible difference between bms6_front and bms7_front.

According to the BOM, 2 x M3x6 FHCS are required. But going through the manual I see that 3 are required, one on page 20 and two on page 56.

Should be at least 5.5mm for M3 SHCS (if anything, 6.0, to account for flattening at the top)

Regards, Blupaci

hi all,

just a small issue: on page 42 (manual from 2022-07-30) you mention M3x8 bolts to hold the hotend in place. the dragon hotend needs M2,5 x8mm. others won't fit the hotend but also don't find your printed part by design. the screw head would be to big to go into the hole of the printed part.

so, i'd suggest to write that at least in the annotations for the printheads (here: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/tree/main/STLs/Stealthburner/Printheads ) or in the manual, too. the thing is that some people may need to buy those screws extra (because M2,5 aren't part of any BOM). that's why it's an issue worth mentioning.

thanks for everything you awesome people :))

cheers
narf