My take on a SpotMicro with an optimized design for supportfree 3D-printing. It utilizes an ESP32-DevKitC for the low-level control of the electronics. The heavy computation will be made by external devices, which in return have the power to command the robot.
I was unable to find one with out an SD card and unfortunately this doesn't drop into the existing slot on the chassis shell tail. It's about 2-3mm too short. Is the side facing center or the side closest to the push button was extended about 2-3mm (including mounting holes, this would be able to fit in.
Alternatively, could you specify a link on where to find a ST7735 that's exactly 1.77 and without SD card? Or even better, the one that you have?
Hey Michael,
first I want to say thank you for this great remix of the original MicroSpot. It's actually the first bigger project I want to replicate.
Looking through the parts folder I saw that there is a short and long version for "Limb_Ball_Bearing_Mount" and "Limb_Servohorn_Mount". Which one is the correct one / which one should I use?
Besides that is there anything I can help you with in regards to this project?
Hey, maybe look at this one some time. I fitted only one in the end but it was quite tricky due to there being not much leeway to ease its way (I'm still trying to fit the others but almost 30min in it's getting tedious). Maybe making it slightly wider would help with assembly speed. The bottom shoulder is fine btw. They're both quite the upgrade from previous model. g
been trying to do the servo calibration with no results. Is there anyway you can share your numbers for ds3218mg and possibly the code used? (Seen and used the one mentioned on the guide but it doesn't do anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The model does not allow the camera mount to fit into the ultrasonic mount, the camera mount is too thick. Also the Camera support does not fit correctly as it is limited/blocked by the pins, needs extra 2mm clearance.
Thanks for your share. I have downed all your git .
I have made a robot dog which parts printed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3445283 and mg995 as option.
I hope to change the servo motor as TD8320 as it's 333HZ and mg995 is 50HZ.
The parts need to be edited.The freecad is used to see and edit. I found I could not edit the stl file then google here.
I'm a newbee at freecad. Your design is more professional and freecad files are shared ใ
May I use your design to assemble TD8320 and MG995?Or which parts should be edited?
Your assemble is great. Could I have a print parts list file, eg. leg.stl 4 mean 4 legs need to be printed?
While assembling lower and upper leg, the nuts have to much play, which leads to misalignments and causes problems during asembly. Changing the size/depth of the pockets or adding thin walls might be a solution
Hi Michael, with the current circuit layout, how have you overcomed the programming and usage of the cam. Currently I'm unable to, without a jumper wire from GPIO 0 to GND, program the board. Then I need to take it out to use it.
Any help is welcomed
Hello, may I suggest a dual channel for the 2 cables (power+balancing) for separate cabled batteries. This will utilize the same board but would use the opening. Also, make it so the top of the internal supporting channel is not closed for easy cable passthrough. Thanks!
Circuitboard_Mount (Template).FCStd does not fit. It is too wide: 110 mm instead of 106.5 mm.
I know this file is not supposed to be printed but I am using it because I am trying to build a Raspberry Pi version of the SpotMicroESP32 and wanted to start with a simple plate.
Please find attached the proposed changes.
Best Regards
Vincent
I don't have the right leg of the spot micro with esp 32 added and stl files of limb top shell and limb bottom shell thumbnails. No matter how much I look for, please add the file to github.
Hello! I've been following your project pretty closely and I wanted to start off and say thank you/you've done an amazing job! I've got the entire chassis printed and assembled and have just the electronic plate left.
I noticed that you recently posted a preliminary outline of how you plan to place your electronics. I was wondering if I could make a small request and ask if you can also provide a model where a raspberry pi zero is used instead?
Maybe this deserves another post but I was wondering why the ESP32 over Rpi Zero W? I get that overall, it's microcontroller vs full blown OS but it seems to me that RPI would provide a path for more advance features later down the road?
Is there anything else that you might need assistance on? I'm a software engineer and have a 3D printer on hand to help development and test if needed.
I'm a student at Dawson College (in Montreal) and I am creating this robot for one of my courses (super excited to do so too ๐) and I had a question about the utility of the rubber dampeners? I have some that came with the servo motors:
And I imagine they are some sort of adapters to use with M3 screws (since they don't seem to be able to directly screw into the screwhorn), but I'm not sure what exactly they are and how I would use them? I tried to look it up, but nothing came up on Google...
Any help would be very appreciated!
Otherwise, thank you very much for all the instructions: they are surprisingly clear to read :)
I've been having issues with short circuits with the current schematic. Have you had them? Could you share current wiring in photo? I'm seeing it pop up whenever the rele activates in cycles. (I've had a couple of smoky incidents too. Appreciate your or anyone's insight
It was good idea to run the wire for the wrist servo through the upper leg.
Problem: The servo that is likely to get burnt(pwm control board) due to stall torque is ones on the wrists. This would require dismantling almost the entire leg, loosing calibration for all the servos on the leg in the process.
Wish: the wiring channel was accessible from outside without having to take apart the shells of the limb.
I sheathed my servo cables using a braided nylon sheath however I was unable to snake them through the servo cable hole in the upper leg. I ended up having to use a router to enlarge the hole and snake them through. The next issue then became the channel, particularly the area right there the servo sides, is super tight and causes some binding.
Quick question:
Printing the covers, do you print them standing upwards (as they are when you open the file) or do you print them lying down (a big surface makes contact with the printing bed)?
I suppose they are part of the pending update. For the measurement units I suggest either belly (though it would be too tight) or in the rear as the removal of the TF screen leaves plenty of space. And maybe swap the small DC unit for the big one in terms of placements for better cable management as the new power supply has a big footprint or at least as close to the side as possible.